Churches of Lindos

St George Chostas

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Lindos's oldest church - and the most beautiful The town swirls around it Perfection, like a stone fondant cream

  ST GEORGE CHOSTAS is the oldest church in town, dating from the 12th century. It is cruciform in a 'cross-in-square' style. As with many Lindos churches, the town has been built up around it, and to enter it is like going underground. Annoyingly, this is kept locked, and an American woman who came here as a hippy in the 1970s and now works in the Ikon gallery told me that it is very hard to get into. I wanted to see the famous Ikon of St George of Lindos, which is vast, painted on tin and set in the north transept. I passed the church on most days, rattling the door in frustration, but to no avail. But then, on the Feast of the Dormition, I was passing at about 10am and I saw an old woman go down the steps and let herself in! I hurried down after her, and my perakola? was answered with a smile. I stepped into the tiny church, ablaze with beeswax candles and the smell of chrism oil. The woman refilled the lamps, lit a few more candles.
The ikon is awesome, life-size and glimmering in the dark. I stood looking at it for a few moments, the woman watching me. When I had said a prayer and lit a candle, she led the way back outside into the blazing sunshine and locked the door behind her. I had been most fortunate.
 

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