St Alban comes as a
surprise when you first see it. The tall
mock-gothic tower looks like something out of a
fairy tale as it stands, a bizarre sentinel,
sticking up in the middle of Wood Street next to
the City of London Police headquarters, with
tower blocks on either side and the precipitous,
preposterous cliff face of London Wall beyond it
to the north. One might even think that it had
been transplanted here from elsewhere for a joke. But of course that is not the case.
There was a church here from at least the 9th
Century, when it was granted to the Abbey of St
Alban's. The medieval church was demolished at
the start of the 17th Century and replaced by one
said to have been designed by Inigo Jones. This
in turn was destroyed thirty years later in the
Great Fire, and Wren's replacement was a Gothic
confection as at St Mary Aldermary, presumably at
the request of the patron. The church had aisles
beyond arcades, and an apse at the end of the
chancel. The furnishings, entirely of the 17th
Century, were unforgiveably destroyed by Gilbert
Scott at the time of his restoration in the
1850s.
St Alban was itself
destroyed on the night of Sunday 29th December
1940, a few hours after the congregation had left
the church after morning service. Waves of German
bombers laid a carpet of fire over the eastern
half of the City, and this church was one of the
many victims. It was not rebuilt, but the tower
was kept, and just as well, for it is a splendid
survival, a most curious fusion of the formality
of late 17th Century architecture and the
excitement of the surviving Gothic imagination.
Converted into living accommodation, it turns
what would be a mundane corner of the city into
something rather thrilling.
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