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Although
it is on what passes for a main
road around here, and not far
from the tourist hotspot of the
cascades de Herrisson, I thought
this was a lovely little village,
and the view over the lake to the
north one of the most stunning of
the summer. The church is a
delight too, set hard against the
road and built into the line of
houses. Inded, what appears to be
the house next door is, in fact,
the chancel, containing the
sanctuary. What is now the nave
was a chapel built in 1680. this
in turn replaced an earlier
building of 1596. At the time, le
Frasnois was part of Loulle
parish, and a bequest on the
feast of the Annunciation by the
Mouillard family was conditional
on a chapel being established
here, dedicated jointly to
Stlaude and St Roch. Later, it
became part of Chatelneuf parish.
The tower was added in 1762, the
chancel in 1789; both seem to
have been intended to enhance the
building's significance as a
parish church after parochial
status was granted in 1738.
The
entrance is in the south side of
the tower, and you turn at a
sharp right-angle as you enter.
The long, low church was almost
black inside, but a handy light
switch is indicated, and in
general the church was very
welcoming. Unusually for France,
there is even a guidesheet.
There is a
sense of being in an ancient
space that had been beautified in
the Vatican II manner, although
in fact the great restoration au
goût du jour was in 1955.
The modern windows are stunning,
and give the church a warmth and
depth. They were installed in
1965, and are the work of Jean
Vuillemey. The centre of the nave
has some of the best chalice
memorials in the area, and the
best is to Jean-Pierre Amey, the
first Priest of le Frasnois
parish.
When Desire
Monnier came this way in 1843,
collecting material for his Annuaire
du Jura, he had a wonderful
surprise. Who would hope to
find magnificent treasures of the
middle ages in such a place? he
observed. But here, you
encounter to your great
astonishment gilded and painted
reliefs, which represent the
principal event sin the life of
the Holy Virgin: her Nativity,
her Annunciation and her
Assumption. There you will also
find yourself presented with
other reliefs, detached from
something larger, that illustrate
the birth of the Saviour and the
adoration of the magi.
Monnier
considered that the work was executed
with the greatest art and
attention that the middle ages
could offer, and that the
women were dressed in the
style of Raphael's virgins. This
debris from a rich monastery, he
went on, was acquired in the
Vaux country at the time when the
reforms of Calvin had shattered
Catholicism. He concluded
that they had probably come from
the monastery of Romain-Moutier.
Today there
is no trace of them, so perhaps
they are in the museum at Lons.
Instead, a simple, pretty east
end features a 17th century
painting of the Crucifixion
flanked by two others in the
style of the school of
Caravaggio. The gilded wooden
statue of Saint-Claud is 18th
century, and stands on a 16th
century font rescued in recent
years from a street in Paris
where it had supported a statue
of Mary.
On the
right hand side of the sanctuary
is a reliquary uncovered during
the 1955 restoration. It now
displays relics of Saint-Claud
given to the church in 1722; the
are in a gilded leather relic
case behind fine ironwork. More
fine ironwork surrounds the
sanctuary.
This is a
stunningly lovely church, with a
sense of spirituality and
continuity. I liked it very much
indeed.
Saint-Claud is
in the main village street, which
forms the D39 between Doucier and
la Chaux du Dombief. I found it
open.
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