A strange place, Vertamboz; only a couple of miles from the mundanity of Pont-de-Poitte and the busy Lons to Clairvaux highway, you drop into the valley of the Ain with its pretty water mill, and then climb up, up, up through the forests to this intensely agricultural village. It isn't tiny - it has a Mairie and a school - but the lanes are narrow, and apart from the houses next to the church nothing seems to have changed for half a century or more. It would be impossible for two cars to pass on the roads at the village centre.

The church is away from this, down a hidden lane on the outskirts of the village - I almost missed it. It is a chapel of ease to Pont de Poitte, and is only used on Sundays. the structure is very simple, apsed at one end and bell-towered at the other; the roofs are modern. Only the buttresses suggest there might be an older structure underneath that dirty rendering.

A very big dog made it very clear how much he would like to eat me as I explored the outside. Fortunately, he was on the other side of a high fence. Then I couldn't work my way out of the village maze, until a pretty postgirl saw me puzzling over my map, stopped her van and pointed me in the right direction for Charézier.

Saint-Andoche, Vertamboz, is on the western edge of the village, high above the D27 Pont-de-Poitte to Doucier road. There's probably a key at the Mairie.